| You woke up and said, «What do you think about going to an old Chinese town
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| called Isleton?
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| It’s out in the delta.»
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| And I stretched and I smiled and said, «That sounds fun.»
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| We crossed the George Miller Bridge and I saw so many little islands on your
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| dashboard GPS
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| River Island, Chipps Island, Winter Island, Ryer Island, Roe Island
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| Moving along Highway 4 East was such an enchanting sight
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| Marshlands, tall weeds, cranes, so, Louisiana life
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| After a while we came upon the Delta Farmer’s Market and we parked
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| I sat on a bench and watched a man playing and singing with all his heart
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| While Caroline gathered strawberries, cherries, and tangerines
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| When she was done shopping, I said, «Let's listen to this guy finish this
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| beautiful song he’s singing.»
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| And when he finished, The Youngbloods' Get Together, he explained that the song
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| was timeless
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| And that it made so much political sense every 10 years or less
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| We arrived in Isleton, parked along Main Street, and we walked up and down
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| And saw a lot of old Chinese signage, most of the stores were closed,
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| it was practically a ghost town
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| We browsed an antique shop, I asked a woman there about the town’s history
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| She said it’s an old Chinese town, that pickers used to live there and that it
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| was flooded in the 1970s
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| And that it went belly-up when the real estate market crashed
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| And I said, «Well what goes on in this town?»
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| She said, «Not a lot.»
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| She said, «There are two places in this town that do well selling pot
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| And other things that go with pot and whatnot.»
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| At the end of the road, we saw a family fishing down a dirt path
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| On the bank of the Delta, two young boys, with their mom and their dad
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| They each had two poles, and they were using anchovies for bait, with one
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| While they used lures with the other, it was fun watching the kids cast
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| Their dad was covered to the hilt in tattoos, his name was Hugo
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| We talked to him for quite a while, but one of the kids eventually said, «Our dad hates to watch us fish.»
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| Hugo then explained that they weren’t his kids and that they were his friends'
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| And his friend had a fishing accident where he took a cast with a lure with two
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| treble hooks, and they got caught in his hand
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| That he had to have his hand all stitched up and that their dad wouldn’t even
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| come along to hold a net
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| When I asked about their little poodle, he said, «That's not mine,
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| that’s their mom’s, and he’s spoiled.»
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| At one point, one of the kids got snagged and their mother told Hugo
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| «Jump in there and un-snag it.»
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| He jumped to it, Hugo was charismatic
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| We asked him about the delta and what kind of fish were in the river
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| He said, «Pike, catfish, striped bass, sturgeon, and largemouth bass and
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| striped bass hybrid.»
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| We talked and talked, and he gave us more history of the town
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| He said he was born and raised there, he said, «Yeah, we go to the Bay Area
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| every then and now
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| But I like to come back here where it’s quiet, I live a simple life.»
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| I could see it in his eyes, his contentment, he was comfortable in his skin and
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| he was zen-like
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| I asked him, «What's the main demographic of people here in Isleton?»
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| He said, «We used to get a lot of traffic from the crawdad and Chinese festival
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| tourism
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| But they moved out to another area.»
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| I said, «Well, what kind of people live here?»
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| He said, «People who like to steal stuff and things like that.»
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| Hugo was everything but a bore
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| He said, «The police got discouraged with the town and there’s no police
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| department anymore.»
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| We told the family how nice it was to meet them and wished them happy fishing
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| Hugo asked us our names, he said, «You guys should try the Mei Wah Room,
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| they have a lot of beer
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| Not like this beer that I’m holding, but beer that they make.»
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| We told him, «Okay.»
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| Caroline and I went to the Mei Wah room and shared an NA beer
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| The place used to be an opium den and a brothel
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| There were all kinds of old Chinese liquor bottles around the room and framed
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| photos of the town from way, way back
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| We talked to the bartender, he was friendly and he told us to go check out the
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| old towns of Walnut Grove and Locke |
| Old Chinese towns, he said, «With buildings slanted like this:»
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| He was holding his hands up in a slightly to the left, vertical position
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| From there we drove to Locke and Walnut Grove and I fell in love with Locke
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| It was like an old town out of a western that was once owned and run by Chinese
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| We went to two antique shops, we saw some cute kittens in one and I bought some
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| Pacific pottery in another
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| There were all these old dilapidated structures, abandoned offices and stores
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| I told Caroline, «Imagine moving to a town like this way, way back from another
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| country when it was fully populated because of a job you were offered
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| Or you were an exchange student or something, and you ended up marrying someone
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| from here when you were young and you never left
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| And you stayed here throughout your entire life, and it’s the only version of
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| California you ever knew
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| You lived there and died there, you know what I mean? |
| This town is so surreal
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| and un-California-like
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| It’s like no place I’ve ever seen.»
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| She said, «Those words you just said… put them in a song.»
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| Then we went to Rio Vista and we had a nice Italian dinner at a place called
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| Lucy’s café
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| On the main street, I had spaghetti and olio, she had chicken piccata and a
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| caprese salad
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| The street was full of old signage, we took a nice walk to the delta
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| But we saw a plaque dedicated to Humphrey the Humpback Whale
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| He made his way up the delta from the Pacific Ocean back in the 80s
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| We saw people fishing on a pier, so we walked out there
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| We looked around taking in the scenery
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| We then drove around the town, and like all charming little towns,
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| I wondered if I’d be able to spend any amount of time there
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| And make an album, or just hang around fishing
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| But it became clear to me that it was mostly a boat community
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| Every person we passed were huddled and talking boat lingo
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| It was a nice little town, but overall, not for me
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| We headed back, and when we got home, we turned on the TV
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| And there was Trump, in Tulsa, speaking to 16,000 people packed into an arena
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| like sardines
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| I told Caroline, «I don’t get it, why is he allowed to do that when musicians
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| aren’t allowed to play concerts?»
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| I went to bed feeling frustrated
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| I finished John Fante’s West of Rome and didn’t fall asleep until the sun came
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| up
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| I had a dream that I was finishing a tour and counting up envelopes full of cash
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| For the last six weeks, every time I fall asleep, I dream of being on stage,
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| or racing to a hotel, or to a venue to soundcheck
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| After the tour part of the dream, the dream changed to me standing in a field
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| across from Peter Frampton
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| Only Peter was black, not white
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| There were a group of people in a circle around us who seemed to be entranced
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| by our conversation
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| He asked me how things were going with music
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| I felt embarrassed, like, compared to him, how could I enlighten him on
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| anything regarding music?
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| He’s the guy I learned the DADGAD tuning from, from his song Penny for Your
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| Thoughts
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| I turned it around and said, «Peter, I’m more interested in hearing about how
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| it’s going with you.»
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| He started to answer and I interrupted him and said
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| «Peter, when I was a kid, a copy of Frampton Comes Alive! |
| was in every single
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| home in my neighborhood
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| Probably in every home in the entire world, for that matter
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| Some of my favorite memories are of being a kid and listening to those songs
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| Like Show Me the Way and Lines on My Face, you know?»
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| And my voice started to quiver, and then we hugged each other
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| A long strong hug
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| And I started crying uncontrollably
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| I continued talking to him, «You know, listening to those songs as a kid way
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| back
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| Before all the bullshit happened.»
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| I woke up, my eyes and pillow full of tears
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| I held Caroline and said, «I just had the most beautiful dream.» |